Night Kitchen · Port Merrow
The regulars
Eight people keep the kitchen busy after midnight. Five of them come to the pass each night, one for each course, and each has a palate of their own. The bars show where each one starts before the course and tonight’s mood shift it; the flavor guide explains how.
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Augustin “Gus” Pell
Dock foreman
Runs the night gang on Pier Four and has unloaded every crate of lemons that ever came into Port Merrow. Comes in at two with his gloves in his back pocket and orders like he is still shouting over a winch.
Likes: Salt, savory and fat. Food with weight. He does not trust a garnish.
On the ticket
- Loves crunch. Something crunchy (raw vegetables with snap, nuts, a sear, a pickle or the fryer) earns 1 more star.
- Something warm. A chilled dish costs a star.
- Make it hot. Heat of 5 or more earns 1 more star.
About half the time, Gus turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Evening. Or morning. Whichever it is, I’m hungry.”
“That’s the stuff. That is exactly the stuff.”
Talks about: French onion soup, Bacon-wrapped dates, Chicken adobo, Pot roast, Steak frites, Cottage pie, Sticky toffee pudding.
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Odile Marsh
Night-shift nurse
Twelve hours on the fever ward at St. Brendan’s, then a bowl of something here before the tram home. Dairy does not agree with her, and she will tell you so with a look.
Likes: Gentle, restorative food with a little brightness. Nothing that fights back.
On the ticket
- No dairy. Any butter, cream, milk, yogurt or cheese (brown butter too) and the dish earns 1 star at most.
- Something warm. A chilled dish costs a star.
- Easy on the heat. More than 2 heat costs a star.
About half the time, Odile turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Twelve hours on the fever ward. Something kind, please.”
“I could cry. In a good way.”
Talks about: Miso soup, Red lentil soup, Chicken noodle soup, Congee, Chicken pot pie, Colcannon, Pumpkin pie.
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Mr. Ambrose Vane
The critic
Signs the book under a different name every visit and fools nobody. Writes the “After Hours” column for the Merrow Ledger in a small, cruel hand. Tips like royalty when he is pleased.
Likes: Balance above all. Every flavor present, none of them shouting.
On the ticket
- Critic: wants balance. Judges strictly: every point off the palate counts, and the tip is doubled.
Palate
“A table for one, under the name of Mr. Smith. Yes, Smith.”
“Balanced. Every voice in tune. I am quite undone.”
Talks about: Gougères, Gravlax, Mushroom risotto, Spaghetti carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Fish meunière, Polenta, Gratin dauphinois, Crème brûlée.
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Captain Ines Calloway
Ferry captain
Runs the last ferry to Gull Island and back, rain or fog. Smells faintly of diesel and oranges. Swears by a proper chowder and has opinions about tomatoes in it.
Likes: Salt and sea. Briny, sour, savory. Whatever came off the boats tonight.
On the ticket
- Seafood, please. No fish or shellfish costs a star.
- Loves crunch. Something crunchy (raw vegetables with snap, nuts, a sear, a pickle or the fryer) earns 1 more star.
About half the time, Captain turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Last ferry’s tied up. Fog like wet wool out there.”
“That is the taste of the sea on a clear morning. Well done.”
Talks about: New England clam chowder, Harbor fish stew, Ceviche, Steamed clams with garlic butter, Fish and chips, Shrimp and grits.
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Theo Lamarr
Jazz pianist
Plays the late set at the Blue Lantern until the manager stacks the chairs. Eats dessert first when he thinks you are not looking.
Likes: Sweet against bitter: chocolate, coffee, caramel, a little heat. He hums when it works.
On the ticket
- Vegetarian tonight. Any meat, fish, stock or fish sauce and the dish earns 1 star at most.
- Something warm. A chilled dish costs a star.
About half the time, Theo turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Last set’s done. My fingers are tired but my stomach’s wide awake.”
“That is a standing ovation on a plate.”
Talks about: Miso-glazed eggplant, Tadka dal, Ratatouille, Mujadara, Panna cotta, Chocolate mousse, Tarte tatin, Pavlova, Coffee granita.
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Dorothy “Dot” Fairweather
Radio announcer
Reads the overnight weather and the shipping news on WMRW, then comes in still talking. Loves fire on a plate, except on nights she has the early bulletin to read and has to save her voice.
Likes: Bright and hot. Lime, vinegar, chili. Wakes her up for the drive home.
On the ticket
- Easy on the heat. More than 2 heat costs a star.
- No dairy. Any butter, cream, milk, yogurt or cheese (brown butter too) and the dish earns 1 star at most.
- Make it hot. Heat of 5 or more earns 1 more star.
About half the time, Dot turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Good morning, Port Merrow. Well, it’s two in the morning, but I say it out of habit.”
“Ladies and gentlemen, we have a hit.”
Talks about: Tom yum, Gazpacho, Patatas bravas, Shakshuka, Pad thai.
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Hattie Quill
Switchboard operator
Has connected every call in Port Merrow since the exchange went all night, and knows most of what was said. Keeps a jar of pickles in her desk drawer for emergencies.
Likes: Sour, salty and crunchy. A pickle with everything.
On the ticket
- Loves crunch. Something crunchy (raw vegetables with snap, nuts, a sear, a pickle or the fryer) earns 1 more star.
- Vegetarian tonight. Any meat, fish, stock or fish sauce and the dish earns 1 star at most.
- No dairy. Any butter, cream, milk, yogurt or cheese (brown butter too) and the dish earns 1 star at most.
About half the time, Hattie turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Number, please. Oh, sorry. Habit.”
“Oh, now that’s the talk of the town. Or will be by morning.”
Talks about: Hot and sour soup, Hummus, Quick pickles, Falafel, Pickled red cabbage, Caponata.
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Lou Abernathy
Cab driver
Drives the number nine cab from the station to the harbor and back until dawn. Eats standing up if you let him. Knows every shortcut, and every cook in town who still has the range lit.
Likes: Heat and savory, and plenty of both. Something he can taste over the radio.
On the ticket
- Make it hot. Heat of 5 or more earns 1 more star.
- Loves crunch. Something crunchy (raw vegetables with snap, nuts, a sear, a pickle or the fryer) earns 1 more star.
- Easy on the heat. More than 2 heat costs a star.
About half the time, Lou turns up with one of these.
Palate
“Meter’s off for ten minutes. Make them count.”
“That’s the best thing between here and the station.”
Talks about: Pho, Kimchi jjigae, Potstickers, Kimchi pancake, Mapo tofu, Chili con carne, Tonkatsu, Carne asada tacos.